The real flamenco in Seville, Spain is not what you think it is.

It is not a “Dancing with the Stars” style over-the-top extravaganza on a big stage.

The most authentic flamenco is raw, unchoreographed and passionate.  It often takes place in small venues in the city’s neighbourhoods.

As actor Klaus Kinski wrote,

“The flamenco of the Gypsy has nothing to do with the flamenco for tourists.  Real flamenco is like sex.”

So, you can see why you want to go for the real thing.

To find it, I turned to the tour company, “Not Just a Tourist“.  They offer a lesson in flamenco dancing and an opportunity to see one of the best flamenco shows in Seville.  Seville is a must as part of an Andulusia road trip in southern Spain.

My flamenco experience was easily the highlight of my visit to Seville!  Read on to see the fascinating things I learned about flamenco.

Flamenco is a way of life

Don’t be surprised if a flamenco performance breaks out on the street as you stroll through Seville.  Sure, that’s partly a tourist thing, but the art of flamenco is in their blood here.

The history was never really written down, but it’s clear that flamenco originated in Andalusia, a regional of southern Spain that includes Seville.  It began when the country was under Arab rule, but was later influenced by people, like the Jews, the moors and gypsies, who all had to flee from persecution.  It became something of a lament to express pain and sadness about their struggles.

As it became more popular in the 20th century, it was designated as Spain’s national dance.  And while it may sound more bureaucratic than sexy, flamenco is now considered an “intangible cultural heritage” by UNESCO.

A lesson in flamenco

For my flamenco lesson, I joined some other guests in a small studio on a quiet street in Seville. 

Our instructor, Kati, is  a professional flamenco dancer and every movement she makes, right down to her fingertips, is evocative of the heart and soul of the dance.  Me?  Not so much.

It turns out that there is a lot to flamenco.  Kati taught us the basics, starting with the rhythmic hand clapping, or “palmas”.  She showed us the steps, as she hiked up her skirt so that we could follow her feet.   She also coached us on the sensuous hand movements.  Then it was time to learn a short routine.

It was good fun and gave me a greater insight into the cultural elements of the dance.  But, let’s just say I won’t be quitting my day job!

Kati talked about the emotion behind the flamenco.  At the same time, she said it’s empowering.  You have to be fierce to dance flamenco.

The heart of flamenco in Triana

The neighbourhood of Triana has long been considered a hotbed of flamenco.   This is where the Roma people from Andalucia sang about their lives and struggles and the place is loaded with character.

For the show, I headed across the Isabel II bridge (popularly known as Puente de Triana) to a small bar.  The show took place in an even smaller room in the back of the bar (smaller than your average living room).    It was an intimate setting, to be sure, one where you don’t just watch the performance.  You feel it.

Although flamenco is a colourful dance, I thought that black and white photos conveyed the atmosphere best.

Flamenco rhythm

The flamenco rhythm or “compás” — the hand clapping and heel clicking – – looks easy when you see the professionals do it.  But, it isn’t.

Fundamental to the performance, the compás is usually based on an intricate 12-beat rhythm.  Sometimes, they clap their hands on the off-beat, as if they’re  not in time with the music.  It’s intentional though, and it works.

The Music

The music consists of the voice (“cante”) and the guitar (“toque”).

The theme of the music is almost always about love, poverty, death and injustice.  To be honest, the singing is not always that easy on the ears.  As an outpouring of pain, it’s not meant to be.  But you can’t help but be moved by it.

I hadn’t realized, until Kati told us, that authentic flamenco is not choreographed.  It’s like a night at the flamenco improv.  You wouldn’t know it unless you watch for the interplay between the performers as they react to each others’ notes.

Flamenco dance

As you can see, the dance is really just one element of flamenco.  It combines with the guitar, the singing and the rhythms to make a performance.

Throw in some “Jaleo”, and it’s a rousing experience.  Roughly translated, “jaleo” means “hell raising” and involves the hand clapping, foot stomping, and shouts of encouragement.  It’s all meant to convey the theme of the performance. 

The indefinable element:  Duende

Lastly, as described by Not Just a Tourist, the soul of flamenco is known as duende.  “It’s the intangible spirit that takes over a performance and something the Spanish believe can only be conveyed with the emotional maturity gained through life experience.”

That performance in the back of that tiny bar had all kinds of duende!

I hope you’ll enjoy these snippets from the performance and from my very first flamenco dancing class.  If you go, it will be an experience you won’t soon forget.

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