Fogo Island, Newfoundland: A Complete Guide

Getting to Fogo Island, a rugged and windswept island off the northeast coast of Newfoundland in Canada, takes some effort.

But being there will take your breath away, and make you feel all warm inside.

About 2200 people live on this Newfoundland island, and you won’t meet more friendly and fiercely proud people anywhere.   Indeed, I’ve based this guide to Fogo Island, Newfoundland on their advice during my visit.

The landscape, with its 400-million year old rocks and lush moss and forests, is wild, to say the least.  There are caribou, whales, puffins and seals.  And icebergs.  Once in awhile, a polar bear rides in on one.

There’s a growing artist community and foodie scene, quilting parties and beach boil-ups.

You can’t help but become part of the local traditions on this island in Newfoundland.

It’s become one of my favourite places in Canada and you’ll quickly see why.

Want to go for this unforgettable experience?  Here’s everything you need to know to plan a visit to Fogo Island, Newfoundland.

The top things to do on Fogo Island, Newfoundland:

Visit the Fogo Island Inn

Since Fogo Island was settled some 400 years ago, its residents have relied on fishing for their livelihood.  But that changed when the cod stocks ran out, and the industry was shut down in 1992.

There were hard times.  In 2006,  Zita Cobb, an Islander who made it big in the tech boom, returned home to see how she could help.  With her siblings, they set up the Shorefast, a charity that’s helping to reinvent the economy and revive the culture on Fogo Island.

Shorefast built the Fogo Island Inn, a  Nordic-style hotel perched on stilts at the edge of the Atlantic ocean. The hotel hires residents and uses locally-made furniture and quilts.  Its profits are reinvested in the community.

See artist studios

The Shorefast Foundation also supports four international artist studios on the Island.  They’re all based in very cool, modern buildings and somewhat isolated to provide inspiration for the artists.  The one pictured above is the ‘Squish Studio’ near Tilting.

You could spend a very pleasant day hiking to the studios to see Fogo Island art.  This guide to the 4 artist studios will help you find them.

Given the strong creative vibe on the Island, you’ll find a number of other art galleries and studios to visit, including the one in the photo below.  It’s known as the Former United Church Cultural Gallery and it’s at 52 Main Street in Fogo.  The Islanders are good at reinventing things.

Go hiking

Canada’s Flat Earth Society believes that Brimstone Head near the Town of Fogo Island, in the photo above,  is one of the four corners of the Earth. 

If you take the 2-kilometre trail to the top, you’ll find phenomenal views and a sign warning you not to fall off!

It’s just one of the many beautiful hiking trails on the Island.  Leisurely walks in this gorgeous environment are one of the best things to do on Fogo Island, Newfoundland.  To help you choose, here is a Fogo Island trail map, along with a list of the trails that includes difficulty ratings.

Look for icebergs & whales

Fogo Island borders on that part of the ocean known as “Iceberg Alley”.  This is where icebergs that have broken off of northern glaciers come floating down the coast of Newfoundland and Labrador in spring and early summer (usually late May to early June).

I used the online tools in my post on how to find icebergs in Newfoundland to locate this impressive iceberg during my visit.

Humpback whales also migrate through these waters, typically starting in mid-to-late June.  Sometimes, you can even spot them from shore.  I didn’t see whales while I was on the Island (it was a little early in the season), but I did see some near Twillingate.

You may also want to take a boat tour for whale and wildlife watching.  Three hour tours to Little Fogo Island are offered by Ketanja Boat Tours from mid-May to the end of September.  Other wildlife sightings might include puffins and bald eagles.

Photography:

Fogo Island is a photographer’s paradise.  There’s something about the low northern light and the bright colours everywhere.

Foggy days, interesting clouds and water reflections add to the mix.

As you can see, I loved taking pictures of these old fishing stages.  They were, and in many cases still are, used for docking fishing boats and cleaning and drying fish.  And as a photo bonus, they’re usually painted bright red.

Then there’s the icebergs, whales and puffins…those could round out your portfolio nicely.

Towns to visit:

Town of Fogo Island:

The largest community on Fogo Island is called Fogo Island.  That might be why it’s often referred to as the ‘Town of Fogo Island’.  And by “largest”, I mean bigger than the other towns, but not very big.

It’s a good base for your visit.  There are several bed and breakfasts and restaurants in town.

It’s also home to some interesting museums, including:

• Bleak House (said to be named after the Dickens novel) was home to some of the most powerful and influential families in Fogo, until the fisheries began to collapse.  In the 1980s,  the Town restored the house, which dates to 1816, and turned it into a museum.  It’s on the North Shore Road in Fogo (49° 43′ 04.91″ N 54°17′ 06.07″ W).
• The Marconi Wireless Interpretation Centre describes the role of wireless communications in keeping local mariners safe.  The original Marconi station was built in 1911 and in the same spot – – high on a hill with a great view of the Fogo community.  (Location:  Pickett’s Road Extension, Fogo, 49° 43′ 10.47″ N 54° 15′ 47.06″ W).
• Experience Fogo is a heritage site where visitors can relive the everyday life of Fogo settlers from centuries ago.  (Location:  North Shore Road, Fogo, 49° 43″ 00.47″ N 54° 17′ 22.04″ W)

Tilting

The town of Tilting was first settled by the Irish in the 18th century and is now a National Historic Site of Canada. It’s home to some of the most photogenic fishing stages on the Island, as well as the Fogo Island Partridgeberry Festival, held over Thanksgiving weekend in October.

There are several historic sites such as the Dwyer Premises (a family fishing residence & operation from the 1890s), the Lane House Museum (the oldest structure in Tilting) and the old Post Office, established in 1887.

However, an even better way to see Tilting is to take Al’s Walking Tour.  The two- hour tour takes you along the scenic Oliver’s Cove Trail, to the historic sites in Tilting and an ancient graveyard shrouded in mystery. The tour ends in Al’s shed where you enjoy a song and maybe a beverage – – a true Newfoundland experience.  (Ask him about his shed crawl).

Joe Batt’s Arm:

Joe Batt’s Arm is home to the famous Fogo Island Inn and is worth a wander when you visit the Inn.

Stop in at the Brett House Museum, a well-preserved home of an English family that settled in the 18th century (Location:  Brown’s Point Road, Joe Batt’s Arm, 49° 43′ 46.48′ N 54° 10′ 19.42″ W).

There is also a wonderful walking trail known as the Joe Batt’s Point Trail.  It starts at Etheridge’s Point Park and goes for 4.6 kilometres round-trip. The walk provides stunning views of the coastline and the Fogo Island Inn.  One of the artist studios, the Long Studio, is located on the trail.  At the end of the trail, you’ll see a bronze monument to the now extinct Great Auk bird species. The hike is considered easy to moderate.

Newfoundland Pony Sanctuary – Change Islands

On the Change Islands, which are smaller islands on the way to Fogo, you’ll find the Newfoundland Pony Sanctuary.  It was founded in 2005 by volunteers to save the critically endangered Newfoundland Pony.

The ponies were, literally, the workhorses for early settlers on the islands.  They’ve adapted to the harsh climate conditions and evolved over the years to become a unique breed.  However, their numbers have dropped from 13,000 in the 1960s to less than 400 today.

If you contact the sanctuary in advance, you can arrange to take a tour of the barn and meet the Newfoundland Ponies, like my good friend Jigger.  In return, the Sanctuary looks for donations to help protect this rare breed.   You can get there on a stop of the Fogo Island ferry (see below).

Where to stay on Fogo Island:

No doubt, the Fogo Island Inn is the ultimate place to stay during your visit.

The Inn has 29 rooms and suites with floor-to-ceiling windows that open onto the ocean.  The rooms vary in size from small to spacious and some of them have wood-burning stoves.  With home-made quilts and wooden furniture, the rooms have a feel of a cozy bed and breakfast, with luxury amenities.

A stay at the Inn is more of an experience.  The rates include all meals for two, a half-day Island orientation with a local host and many excursions. A 3-night minimum stay applies from June to September.  Fifteen per cent of the room rate goes to the Shorefast Foundation to be reinvested in the local community.

However, with the lowest room rate currently at $1975 per night (Canadian), it may not suit every budget.

I stayed at Peg’s Place, a comfortable bed and breakfast in the Town of Fogo Island.  The rooms are basic, but clean and the hospitality and breakfast provided by Eileen (Peg was her mother) are excellent.  You may also want to check this list of Fogo Island accommodations.

Note that you won’t find many of the accommodations on online booking sites, and in some cases, you have to contact them by phone to make a reservation.

Where to eat on Fogo Island:

The food on Fogo Island reflects local tradition.  For hundreds of years, Islanders have had to catch, hunt, grow or forage for food.  Naturally, you’ll find fish and seafood on the menu, along with some berries you may not know.  My favourite was jam made from partridgeberries, a tart red berry similar to cranberries or lingonberries.  Another popular local item is bakeapple, which is not an apple at all, but an orange berry like raspberries (also known as cloudberries).

If you get a chance, you should go for a meal at the Fogo Island Inn which offers a creative, but local food experience.  Visitors who aren’t guests of the hotel can dine there as long as you book online well in advance.  I enjoyed a lovely shrimp roll at lunch there, while watching the ocean waves roll in.

Of course, you must try some fish and chips at one of the Fogo Island restaurants.  Good places for it are Beaches Bar and Grill on the main street in Fogo town, and the  Cod Jigger Diner on Highway 333 in the centre of the island.

A new restaurant, called Bangbelly, has been getting rave reviews.  It’s at 41-42 Main Street in the Town of Fogo Island.  You’ll also want to try Scoff Restaurant, which has great reviews for its take on local cuisine (and its lemon meringue pie!).  It’s near the Fogo Island Inn in Joe Batt’s Arm at 159 Main Road.

Finally, don’t miss a chance to stop in at Growlers Ice Cream Shop, so named for the big chunks that break off icebergs.  It’s on Main Street in Joe Batt’s Arm.

What to pack for your visit to Fogo Island:

When it comes to the weather, Fogo Island and the Change Islands have a little (or a lot) of everything.  Fog, rain, and wind are common, even through the summer months.

Since an umbrella won’t do you much good in the wind, it’s a good idea to have rain pants and a breathable rain jacket on hand.  This Helly Hansen waterproof jacket has kept me dry through countless downpours.  Similarly, you may also want a weatherproof case to protect your phone.  I use a Lifeproof case.

Even though it’s northern Canada, you should also have sunglasses. sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat.

Given the variable weather, the best approach is to dress in layers, including a fleece layer.  If you plan to do any walking, don’t forget your hiking boots for the rugged terrain.

A pair of travel binoculars is useful for spotting whales and other wildlife, and if you take a boat tour, you may want to have nausea pills on hand, if, like me,  you’re not a very good sailor.

Finally, you should definitely have some bug spray.  The black flies in Newfoundland can be quite aggressive, as I discovered when I went walking through a boggy area.

One thing you don’t need:  dress clothes.  I’m pretty sure there’s a casual dress code policy on Fogo Island.

Best time to visit Fogo Island:

The best time to visit Fogo Island is the summer, from about mid-June to mid-September.  Fogo Island weather is always variable (from fog to sunshine on the same day), but summer is your best bet for enjoyable conditions.

If you want to see icebergs, the best time is mid-May to early June.  The whales usually arrive toward the end of June, so it is possible to see both, perhaps in mid-June, if luck is with you.

How to get to Fogo Island

To get to Fogo Island, you can take the Fogo Island ferry which departs from the aptly named Farewell Ferry.  Farewell is about a 4.5 hour drive from the capital of St. John’s via Gander.

There is a ferry that stops in the Change Islands (takes 20 minutes) and continues on to Fogo Island.  Or you can take a direct ferry to Fogo Island that takes 45 minutes.  The ferry runs several times a day, but the schedule changes and is subject to weather, so be sure to check the Fogo Island ferry schedule.  Prices are reasonable, but there are no advance reservations.

There are also in-season charter flights from Gander to Fogo Island every Monday Wednesday and Friday.  The flights are operated by EVAS Air Charters.

Getting around on Fogo Island:

There are no public buses, taxis or car rental companies on Fogo Island, so most visitors rent cars and take the ferry.  Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism advises that if you’re visiting in the summer months, you should book a rental car early.

You can also arrange half-day or full-day tours through Fogo Island Bus Tours and they’ll pick you up at the ferry.

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