Which are the best Vienna Christmas markets? What are the…
Vienna to Salzburg Day Trip: The Sound of Music, Mozart & More
A Vienna to Salzburg day trip is a must if you like the Sound of Music, mountain vistas and gossipy historical tidbits. Surely, these are a few of my favourite things.
I admit it. I watch the Sound of Music
But I also wanted to know more about Salzburg and the Lake Region. That’s why I was glad to find Vienna à la carte when I was looking for the best day trip from Vienna to Salzburg.
Flemming, our guide for the small group tour from Vienna to Salzburg, made sure we got the inside scoop on the movie and on Austria.
You may also like:
Insider Tips to See the Lipizzaner Stallions at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna and
The 15 Best Day Trips from Vienna
The Vienna to Salzburg day trip begins
Attersee: First stop on our day trip to Salzburg from Vienna
We met Flemming in central Vienna to start the tour and settled into a comfortable black Mercedes van, equipped with wifi and a TV screen (you’ll see why later). The tour takes a maximum of 8 people – – we were a group of six.
As we drove through the Vienna Woods, Flemming regaled us with stories of Austria’s past, including tales of murder and a love story.
Remember Archduke Ferdinand from history class? He was heir to the throne of the ruling Habsburg empire when he and his wife were assassinated in 1914, an event that set off World War I.
What they didn’t teach you is that the Archduke was a black sheep of the family because he wouldn’t marry the bride the Hapsburgs had chosen for him. Instead, he married for love. Flemming pointed out Arstetten Castle as we drove by. That’s where the Archduke and his wife are buried because the family refused to put them in the Imperial Crypt. After the war, the Habsburgs lost their wealth and territory, and Austria was forever changed.
Not all whiskers on kittens, the Sound of Music takes place against the backdrop of World War II, during the Anschluss, when the Nazis annexed Austria. I hadn’t realized that Hitler was from Austria.
As we drove by the city of Linz, where Hitler grew up, Flemming told us that Hitler flunked out of high school there. After being rejected by art school in Vienna, Hitler lived in a homeless shelter in the city. It’s a history the region still grapples with, he said.
Bliss tip! Where to stay in Vienna: An upscale Airbnb can make a visit to Vienna more affordable, without sacrificing comfort. Here’s where I stayed in the 3rd District, Landstrasse.
So, you wanna buy a lake?
Soon, we arrived in the Austrian Lake District or Salzkammergut, a beautiful resort area where Austrians spend their summer vacations.
The area gets its name from the salt mines here, and this is where the Nazis hid the many art works they had stolen. The Altaussee Salt Mine has become popular as a tourist attraction since the movie, the Monuments Men
We stopped at Attersee or Lake Atter, where painter Gustav Klimt spent his summers. We also drove by Lake Mondsee, which is for sale at a price of 12 million Euros. Not surprisingly, there have been no takers because the buyer only gets the water, and none of the land around the lake.
There’s a big cathedral in the town of Mondsee. That’s where the wedding scene in the Sound of Music was filmed.
A visit to St. Gilgen
The hills were alive with mist in St. Gilgen. It’s an inexplicably cute village on lake Wolfgang (or Wolfgangsee).
It’s a popular spot for tourists in the summer. In December, it had a decidedly Twin Peaks feel to it, with the clouds rolling down the hills and we enjoyed a stroll around this alpine town.
St. Gilgen – Mozart was not here
There is something of a Mozart theme to the town, with a small museum, statue and his namesake on the lake. In fact, Mozart was never here.
The connection is that his mother was born here, and it’s part of the Salzburg province afterall.
The opening scene to the Sound of Music
In my mind, the opening scene of the Sound of Music is of Julie Andrews twirling in the Austrian alps. In fact, that part was shot in Bavaria.
But there are some scenes before the twirling, and they’re from this lookout above St. Gilgen. Shots were also taken from a helicopter over the lake, and you can see why.
A tour of Salzburg
We arrived in Salzburg by midday for a tour of the city’s historical centre by local guide, Naomi. The city centre features plenty of Italian-influenced Baroque architecture, and it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Our first stop just happened to be the place for “Do-Re- Mi”….
Sound of Music locations in Salzburg – Mirabell Gardens
Most of the “Do-Re-Mi” number was filmed here in Mirabell gardens.
On the south side entrance, you’ll recognize these Greek fencing statues. The children struck similar poses during the song.
They also walked around the Pegasus statue fountain you see in the photo collage below, and had a long, long way to run through the pergola vine tunnel. The song closed on the North Terrace steps, which Maria and the kids used as a hopping musical scale, and where Julie Andrews hits that famous final note.
Mirabell Gardens address: Mirabellplatz, 5020 Salzburg
The movie was, of course, shot during the summer months, but you’ll still spot the Sound of Music locations in this movie clip from YouTube.
If you’re spending more time and looking for things to do in Salzburg, you may want to see a show at the Salzburg Marionette Theatre, near Mirabell Gardens. The tiny cast of marionettes perform full-scale operas. The theatre inspired the goat herder performance in the Sound of Music, although according to the real Maria von Trapp, Julie Andrew’s yodeling wasn’t quite up to par. I couldn’t resist including a You Tube link at the end of this post, where the two of them sing together.
Nonnberg Abbey – How do you solve a problem like Maria?
The Nonnberg Abbey, which dates back to 714 AD, is one of the oldest convents in the world. Sitting high on a hill with lovely views of the city, there are still a couple of dozen nuns living there.
This is the convent that the real-life Maria joined as a “novice nun” at the age of 19.
In 1926, Captain Von Trapp hired Maria to tutor one of his daughters who was sick at home. She wasn’t hired to be the governess of the children, and she didn’t teach them to sing – – they were already doing that.
The two married in 1927, and not just before the war as shown in the movie. Maria said they didn’t marry for love, but for the children, although she said she grew to love him over time.
In the movie, we see the nuns talking about Maria at the convent after she returns late for Mass. You’ll also remember the abbey gates where the children come to visit her, and when the Nazis come looking for the Von Trapps. That’s when we hear the famous line from one of the nuns who disabled the Nazis’ car, “Reverend Mother, I have sinned.”
Although you can go in the convent’s chapel, no one is allowed inside the convent. Those scenes, and the one where the family hides in the cemetery, were shot on a Hollywood set.
Address: Nonnberggasse 2, 5020 Salzberg
Tip: It’s an uphill walk via Festungsgasse alley to Nonnberg Abbey. Another option is to take the funicular, the FestungsBahn, up to the Hohensalzburg Fortress and walk down from there.
Sound of Music movie scenes in Residentzplatz
Several movie scenes were shot in Residence Square in the heart of Old Salzburg.
Of course, when I visited in December, it was the site of a Christmas market. But, you can just see in the background the top of the baroque horse fountain where Maria splashes some water when she sings “I Have Confidence in Me” after leaving the Abbey. Later in the movie, Nazi soldiers march through the large square while their flag hangs above the entrance to the Old Residenz Palace.
Also, the “Do-Re-Mi” carriage ride starts out in Residenzplatz, in a carriage very much like this one. You can try it out yourself!
I found some edelweiss in the Christmas market – – silk flowers, not real ones, given the winter season. By the way, Edelweiss was not an Austrian folk song or national anthem. It was written by Rogers and Hammerstein for the original stage play of the Sound of Music.
And, while we’re busting some movie myths, the Von Trapps didn’t escape Austria by climbing a mountain to Switzerland. Switzerland doesn’t share a border with Austria. In fact, crossing the mountains would lead you to Germany.
The Von Trapps did leave because they opposed the Nazi occupation, but they took a train to Italy and eventually traveled to the United States where they had concert bookings.
Salzburg Cathedral – Mozart was here
Beside the Residenzplatz is the majestic Salzburg Cathedral, where Mozart was baptized in 1756. He also played the organ there – – the same one that is there now – – although he didn’t much care for “church music’.
Entrance to the Cathedral is free, but donations are expected.
The key place to visit for Mozart memorabilia is Mozart’s birthplace, in the bright yellow house at No. 9 Getreidegasse. Now a museum, you can take an hour-long tour to see documents from his life, and, most interestingly, Mozart’s own violin and clavichord.
Now, if you really want a Mozart souvenir during your visit to Salzburg, you should get some Mozartkugel, otherwise known as “Mozart balls”. (I am not making this up!) These confections were created in 1890 by Paul Fürst and there are now four locations in Salzburg to buy them. These treats are made from marzipan and pistachio surrounded by nougat and dark chocolate. And yes, I bought a bag full! You can get similar Mozart balls here
.
.
Salzburg sightseeing:
We also had a chance to walk across the romantic Makartsteg Bridge to see the love locks and the views at twilight, and to stop by the Hotel Bristol.
Christopher Plummer, who is on record as saying he hated the movie, stayed here during the filming. Toward the end of the shoot, his wardrobe had to be refitted because he enjoyed too many Austrian pastries and schnapps at the hotel.
Salzburg at Christmas
We also had a brief chance to stop at a few of the many Christmas markets in Salzburg – – a truly magical time of year in this city.
In the early evening, we headed back to Vienna, but with a treat during the drive. We watched the entire Sound of Music movie in the van, spotting all of the locations we had just seen.
And with that, we bid so long to Salzburg. Farewell, auf wiedersehen, good night!
Bonus Video
More Information:
Tour details: Vienna à la Carte – Salzburg & Lake Region Small Group Tour from Vienna
Tourism Information: Salzburg Tourism
Suggested reading: Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol
If you stay: Click here to find hotel deals in Salzburg.
Looking for other day trips from Vienna? Consider Vienna to Bratislava by bike.
Travel Bliss Now received a media discount for the tour, but my opinions are always my own.
Pin it:
You may also like:
Insider Tips to See the Lipizzaner Stallions at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna
Vienna Christmas Markets – Top Tips For Your Visit
The 15 Best Day Trips from Vienna
I’ve loved watching the Sound of Music since I was a little girl. We considered visiting Austria when we were in Budapest last summer but decided instead that it really needs its own trip. I can’t imagine visiting the country without a time in Salzburg. It’s so lovely with such an amazing history. I love that you visited with a guide. It’s such a wonderful way to get tidbits of information you’d never get exploring on your own.
Yes, I learned so much about the history and the movie that I didn’t know before. I would have loved more than a day in Salzburg and the Lakes Region. Thanks for reading Joanne.
Salzburg is beautiful. I love the Alps in the background and, I’m not going to lie, I’m a huge Sound of Music fan. Does it sound cooler if I say SOM? Kind of like GOT, but with better music and less gore. St. Gilgen is remarkably cute.
Absolutely, I think SOM makes us way cooler. I almost used in the post! Thanks!
I have been to Salzburg a couple of times, so this was a great post for me to reminisce and recognize some of the sites you went to. It is such a beautiful city with interesting history. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I agree – – I was fascinated on the history and the city is so gorgeous with the Alps as a backdrop. I would love to return in the summer.
I’ve never seen the Sound of Music, but we did visit both Salzburg and Vienna and enjoyed both cities equally. And when you look at the historical settings as well as the landscape, it’s no wonder it’s the perfect background for movies. Whether one is a fan of that specific movie or not, these Austrian cities are worth visiting in their own rights.
That was one of the great things about the tour – – it can be tailored to the interests of the small group. I was keen to see the Sound of Music sights, but I was glad that we saw and learned so much more than that. Thanks for reading Patricia!
Mozart, Sound of Music and Salzburg are all a few of my favorite things! Your photos are awesome, but I really love your ones from St Gilgen. I can’t believe the lake itself cost 12 million Euros or that Hitler lived in a homeless shelter! A huge history lesson on history right there!
Thanks Heather. I learned so much on this tour – – I always enjoy these historical tidbits.
So much interesting history you’ve included! I would love to try one of Mozart’s Balls! (There’s a sentence I never thought I’d type…) Haha. Seriously, though, Salzburg looks amazing, especially at Christmas.
And I never thought I’d be buying a whole bag of Mozart’s balls!! 🙂 Thanks for reading Dani!
This is such a wonderful tour and I love how the group size is kept small. My sister did this tour last year and I wish I could have gone with her. I’m a huge fan of SOM and would love to see the Mozart theme town.
Thanks Candy. I’m not a fan of big bus tours, so I really appreciated the small group size too.
That’s a fascinating insight into the area, the history and the film. The small group tour seems a brilliant way of seeing and learning a lot in a short time. The anecdotes absolutely make this; I’m loving that Christopher Plummer needed his suits adjusting after an indulgent hotel stay. Plus I enjoyed all the movie mythbusting. I think we may have experienced the Mozart balls before, and as a lover of marzipan, they’re right up my street.
Thanks so much Bernadette! That’s exactly what I really liked about this tour. While I would love to spend more time, we learned and saw so much during the day that we had.
I’ve always liked touring cathedrals.. I guess it’s because of the beautiful architecture and great designs. I hope visit the Salzburg Cathedral one day. The sightseeing looks like quite an interesting activity. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you Lora. The Salzburg Cathedral is really gorgeous, and I love the fact that Mozart played there. It was a great tour!
Your day trip from Vienna to Salzburg sounds like living a dream. I was amazed to see that Hitler was originally from Austria. Of course, the Sound of Music is one of the main reasons people head to Salzburg and looking at your pictures bring alive the classic. Mirabelle gardens look so beautiful. Loved watching the Sound of Music clip too.
Thanks so much Sandy! I couldn’t resist including the video clips, so I’m glad you enjoyed it.
I love Salzburg! I used to go there once a year or so for business and always tried working in some “tourist” time also. I’ve been to Salzkammergut several times – it’s so peaceful and relaxing!
Great article that brings back many good memories.
Thanks Jim. I agree on Salzkammergut – – I would love to spend more time there.
I really like short trips, this is perfect for me! Such beautiful architecture in your photographs is something amazing. I’m impressed! Super! Thanks for sharing! I dream of being there!
Thanks Victoria! I hope you get a chance to go one day.