Why This Newfoundland Tradition is a Can’t Miss Experience
AppBeIf you “come from away”, a boil-up is a Newfoundland tradition that will give you a feel for the heart and soul of Canada’s eastern-most province.
On one of his last episodes of ‘Parts Unknown‘, Anthony Bourdain took part in a boil-up that was described as “epic”. And on my visit to Bonavista, Newfoundland, I enjoyed a beach boil-up with Bonavista Adventure Tours that was equally epic in my books.
What, you might be asking, is a “beach boil-up”?
It’s a Newfoundland tradition where a group of friends or family gather on a beach to enjoy local food cooked over an open fire. Some people call it a “Mug-up” because a hot cup of tea is usually part of the event.
It’s a wonderful way to get a taste of Newfoundland and Labrador.
Beautiful Bonavista
First, to set the scene. And, what a scene!
I met with my hosts on a rocky beach at sunset. On one side, we had a view of the historic fishing village of Bonavista, and on the other — old-time fishing sheds and the ocean beyond. In the course of one evening, the weather was constantly shifting with sunlight, clouds and fog mixing to make magic. That’s normal in Newfoundland.
The town of Bonavista is on the east coast, about a 3.5 hour drive north from the provincial capital, St. John’s.
This is where John Cabot first discovered North America in 1497. It’s no wonder that he declared, “O buono vista!”, when he first saw it.
Bliss Tip! Where to stay in Bonavista – I had a fabulous stay (and delicious breakfasts) at Abbott’s Bed & Breakfast.
Meet Bonnie & Jordan
It’s funny how when you meet someone in Newfoundland, you immediately feel like you’ve known them for a long time. That’s how it was with Bonnie and Jordan, the enterprising couple that runs Bonavista Adventure Tours.
Both of them grew up in the area but, like many Newfoundlanders, they traveled to other parts of the province and Canada for education and work. Still, they told me they were drawn back home to the things they took for granted growing up. After starting a family, they decided to stay and live the local lifestyle, something they want to share with visitors.
We found common ground as we sat by the fire and talked. Afterall, I started Travel Bliss Now as part of changing my lifestyle and pursuing my passion for travel.
The Beach Boil-Up Menu
Appetizers
With thousands of kilometres of coastline, it comes as no surprise that fresh seafood was on the multi-course menu.
First up, a steaming pot of mussels. There’s something infinitely more satisfying about enjoying the succulent mussels straight from the pot, while listening to the crackling fire and breathing in the sea air.
Next, something new for me – – grilled capelin. Capelin is a small North Atlantic fish from the smelt family, a staple for local folks and whales alike.
Once grilled, you snap off the heads and eat the whole thing. Jordan told me that they’re commonly served as a bar snack. It makes sense because they’ll definitely satisfy your salt cravings. I found them to be quite tasty.
Main Course
I was excited to see crab legs steaming over the fire. It’s one of my favourites and quite a delicacy to me. I was even happier when Jordan cut them open, so that I could get right to the business of devouring the tasty flesh inside. Yum!
And for the main course, delicious pan-fried cod with crab apple chutney, home made bread, and salad with partridge berry vinaigrette.
Partridge berries (same thing as lingonberries) grow wild in Newfoundland and it’s one of the prizes when locals go foraging. That’s another tradition you can experience with Bonavista Adventure Tours, along with puffin hikes and tours of Bonavista and other coastal towns in the area. I was also lucky enough to get some home made partridge berry preservatives to take home.
Newfoundlanders live off both the sea and the land. Depending upon the season, Bonnie and Jordan may also serve other foraged berries and herbs, or moose, lobster and cod tongues. (Having been raised on the Canadian prairies, I must admit that I didn’t know that cod fishes had tongues.) For dessert, we savoured a slice of fruit and nut cake, the kind my Mom used to make at Christmas.
There is a certain irony given the resurgence toward eating local and organic foods that haven’t been processed with all sorts of chemicals. Newfoundlanders have been cooking this kind of food over an open fire for centuries.
And eating outdoors with new friends in these surroundings, that’s what living in the moment is all about.
Who wore it best?
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I loved this photo of Anthony Bourdain lounging at his Newfoundland boilup. Whatever darkness he had within, the man had an undeniable air of cool.
Me? Well, maybe not so much…
The good news is that Newfoundlanders aren’t fussy about fashion at a beach boilup.
Dinner and a show
After dinner, Mother Nature put on a spectacular show, dazzling us with a variety of colours.
It was a day to appreciate the simple bliss that this special place has to offer.
More Information:
Tour details: See Bonavista Adventure Tours
Where to stay in Bonavista: Abbott’s Bed and Breakfast
Tourism Information: Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism
Suggested Reading: Fodor’s Nova Scotia & Atlantic Canada: with New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland (Travel Guide)
Travel Bliss Now received a media rate from Bonavista Adventure Tours, but my opinions are entirely my own.
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Bonavista and Newfoundland sound like an amazing place to visit. With so much culture and to be honest, delicious looking food. I want some of those crab legs right now, please.
Thanks Lena! The food was fantastic and so fresh.
OMG that all looks and sounds so good. Newfoundland is now very high up on my bucket list! Thanks for sharing such a wonderful experience.
Thanks so much James! You will love doing this when you go.
We were in Newfoundland last week after spending a week on the island road tripping. We didn’t do this tradition which looks fantastic, but instead we got schreeeched in Saint John’s and had to kiss a fish! 😀
Thanks Danik. Yes, kissing the cod is another local tradition and that makes you an official Newfoundlander now!
Lovely! Beach boil-up sounds so exciting. Great way of meeting new people and trying out new cuisines. The menu is yummy and I am sure you had a great time enjoying the food and new friendships.
Thank you. As you say, good food and new friends makes for a really special experience!
I love mussels, but I think eating them along with that sunset would make it an even better experience – check out those colours! The cod also sounds great, I’d be so up for a beach boil up!
Thanks Rachel! You’re right – – something about being outside in that gorgeous setting made it all the more tasty.
This seems to have been a beautiful evening out. The setting seems amazing, and the menu was mouthwatering. Looking at the clothes and the rocky ground, I’m wondering how cold was it..?
It was a little chilly due to the wind, but that’s all part of the experience in Newfoundland. They also have the boil-up on a sandy beach, but chose this location that day because there was some shelter to block the wind. It was all good fun!
Coming from Croatia, I am a huge fresh seafood lover. Now wonder how does Newfoundlands’ seafood taste?
I love mussels. And, grilled capelin reminded me of sprats (or, ‘papalina’ in Croatian). Sprats are also usually served as a snack and eaten all.
Thank you Milijana! Newfoundland seafood is very fresh and tastes delicious. The capelin are also served as snacks, so it sounds similar to the Croatian way.
Okay, count me in for a beach-boil-up! It sounds like so much fun. The pan-fried cod with crab apple chutney sounds absolutely delicious and that view doesn’t get much better!
Thanks Melody! Yes, the great food and the view make a great combination.
This beach boil up is indeed epic. I love such old age tradition and travel actually gives opportunity to revisit them. Bonavista looks serene and beautiful. Awesome pics specially all boil-ups including owners of touring company.
Thanks Himanshu! I thought Bonavista was a beautiful place, made all the more so by meeting lovely people like the owners of Bonavista Adventure Tours.
This is a beautiful article, I just love how well you’ve captured this way of life in your photos and just how authentic an experience this is. This is the Canada I want to come and visit.
Thanks you so much Nicola! Such a kind comment and that’s just how I felt about the experience too.